Explanatory Notes
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Apparatus Notes
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CHAPTER 75
[begin page 513]

CHAPTER 75

The next night was appointed for a visit to the bottom of the craterexplanatory note, for we desired to traverse its floor and see the “North Lake” (of fire) which lay two miles away, toward the further wall. After dark half a dozen of us set out, with lanterns and native guides, and climbed down a crazy, thousand-foot pathway in a crevice fractured in the crater wall, and reached the bottom in safety.

The eruptionemendation of the previous evening had spent its force and the floor looked black and cold; but when we ran out upon it we found it hot yet, to the feet, and it was likewise riven with crevices which revealed the underlying fires gleaming vindictively. A neighboring cauldron was threatening to overflowemendation, and this added to the dubiousness of the situation. So the native guides refused to continue the venture, and then everybodyemendation deserted except a stranger named Marletteexplanatory note. He said he had been in the crater a dozen times in daylight and believed he could find his way through it at night. He thought that a run of three hundred yards would carry us over the hottest part of the floor and leave us our shoe-soles. His pluck gave me back-bone. We took one lantern and instructed the guides to hang the other to the roof of the lookoutemendation house to serve as a beacon for us in case we got lost, and then the party started back up the precipice and Marlette and I made our run. We skipped over the hot floor and over the red crevices with brisk dispatch and reached the cold lava safe but with pretty warm feet. Then we took things leisurely and comfortably, jumping tolerably wide and probably bottomless chasms, and threading our way through picturesque lava upheavals with considerable confidence. When we got fairly away from the cauldrons of boiling fire, we seemed to be in a gloomy desert, and a suffocatingly dark one, surrounded by dim walls that seemed to tower to the sky. The only cheerful objects were the glinting stars high overhead.

[begin page 514] By and by Marlette shouted “Stop!” I never stopped quicker in my life. I asked what the matter was. He said we were out of the path. He said we must not try to go on till we found it again, for we were surrounded with beds of rotten lava through which we could easily break and plunge down a thousand feet. I thought eight hundred would answer for me, and was about to say so when Marlette partly proved his statement by accidentally crushing through and disappearing to his arm-pits. He got out and we hunted for the path with the lantern. He said there was only one path and that it was but vaguely defined. We could not find it. The lava surface was all alike in the lantern light. But he was an ingenious man. He said it was not the lantern that had informed him that we were out of the path, but his feet. He had noticed a crisp grinding of fine lavaneedles under his feet, and some instinct reminded him that in the path these were all worn away. So he put the lantern behind him, and began to search with his boots instead of his eyes. It was good sagacity. The first time his foot touched a surface that did not grind under it he announced that the trail was found again; and after that we kept up a sharp listening for the rasping sound and it always warned us in time.

breaking through.

It was a long tramp, but an exciting one. We reached the North Lake between ten and eleven o’clock, and sat down on a huge overhanging lava-shelf, tired but satisfied. The spectacle presented was worth coming double the distance to see. Under us, and stretching away before us, was a heaving sea of molten fire of seemingly limitless [begin page 515] extent. The glare from it was so blinding that it was some time before we could bear to look upon it steadily. It was like gazing at the sun at noondayemendation, except that the glare was not quite so white. At unequal distances all around the shores of the lake were nearly white-hot chimneys or hollow drums of lava, four or five feet high, and up through them were bursting gorgeous sprays of lava-gouts and gem spangles, some white, some red and some golden—a ceaseless bombardment, and one that fascinated the eye with its unapproachable splendor. The more distant jets, sparkling up through an intervening gossamer veil of vapor, seemed miles away; and the further the curving ranks of fiery fountains receded, the more fairy-like and beautiful they appeared.

fire fountains.

Now and then the surging bosom of the lake under our noses would calm down ominously and seem to be gathering strength for an enterprise; and then all of a sudden a red dome of lava of the bulk of an ordinary dwelling would heave itself aloft like an escaping balloon, then burst asunder, and out of its heart would flit a pale-green film of vapor, and float upward and vanish in the darkness—a released soul soaring homeward from captivity with the damned, no doubt. The crashing plunge of the ruined dome into [begin page 516] the lake again would send a world of seething billows lashing against the shores and shaking the foundations of our perch. By and by, a loosened mass of the hanging shelf we sat on tumbled into the lake, jarring the surroundings like an earthquake and delivering a suggestion that may have been intended for a hint, and may not. We did not wait to see.

We got lost again on our way back, and were more than an hour hunting for the path. We were where we could see the beacon lantern at the lookoutemendation house at the time, but thought it was a star and paid no attention to it. We reached the hotel at two o’clock in the morning pretty well fagged out.

lava stream.

Kilauea never overflows its vast crater, but bursts a passage for its lava through the mountain side when relief is necessary, and then the destruction is fearful. About 1840 it rent its overburdened stomachexplanatory note and sent a broad river of fire careering down to the sea, which swept away forests, huts, plantations and everythingemendation else that lay in its path. The stream was five miles broad, in places, and two hundred feet deep, and the distance it traveled was forty miles. It tore up and bore away acre-patches of land on its bosom like rafts—rocks, trees and all intact. At night the red glare was visible a hundred miles at sea; and at a distance of forty miles fine print could be read at midnightexplanatory note. The atmosphere was poisoned with sulphurous vapors and choked with falling ashes, pumice stones and [begin page 517] cinders; countless columns of smoke rose up and blended together in a tumbled canopy that hid the heavens and glowed with a ruddy flush reflected from the fires below; here and there jets of lava sprung hundreds of feet into the air and burst into rocket-sprays that returned to earth in a crimson rain; and all the while the laboring mountain shook with Nature’s great palsy, and voiced its distress in moanings and the muffled booming of subterranean thunders.

a tidal wave.

Fishes were killed for twenty miles along the shore, where the lava entered the sea. The earthquakes caused some loss of human life, and a prodigious tidal wave swept inland, carrying everythingemendation before it and drowning a number of nativesexplanatory note. The devastation consummated along the route traversed by the river of lava was complete and incalculable. Only a Pompeii and a Herculaneum were needed at the foot of Kilauea to make the story of the eruptionemendation immortal.

Editorial Emendations CHAPTER 75
  eruption (C)  ●  irruption (A) 
  overflow (C)  ●  over-  |  flow (A) 
  everybody (C)  ●  every body (A) 
  lookout (C)  ●  look-out (A) 
  noonday (C)  ●  noon-  |  day (A) 
  lookout (C)  ●  look-out (A) 
  everything (C)  ●  every thing (A) 
  everything (C)  ●  every thing (A) 
  eruption (C)  ●  irruption (A) 
Explanatory Notes CHAPTER 75
 a visit to the bottom of the crater] During his Sandwich Islands sojourn Mark Twain had probably read one or more of the numerous published accounts of trips into the crater, but there is no clear evidence that he drew upon any of them when later writing his own version (see Ellis, 224–36; Charles S. Stewart, 308–13; Byron, 183–90; Wilkes, 4:130–38, 181–91; Cheever 1851a, 290–309; and Hill, 256–78).
 Marlette] Charles W. Marlette of Jacksonville, Illinois, had arrived in Honolulu in September 1865 and by March 1866 had visited Kilauea at least four times. Mark Twain’s correct recollection of his companion’s name suggests that he might have relied on his notebook for early June, which is now lost, to refresh his memory (Volcano House Register, 63, 74; “Passengers,” Friend 14 [2 Oct 65]: 80).
 About 1840 it rent its overburdened stomach] This eruption of Kilauea began on 30 May 1840 and continued for three weeks.
 The stream was five miles broad . . . fine print could be read at midnight] Mark Twain drew the figures in this passage (as well as the [begin page 736] remark about the fishes at 517.9) from an account by the Reverend Titus Coan, a missionary stationed at Hilo, which was first published in the Missionary Herald of July 1841 and widely reprinted thereafter. He also quoted parts of this account in his Sandwich Islands lecture, which he wrote upon his return to San Francisco (Titus Coan 1841; SLC 1866kk; Fatout 1976, 12).
 The earthquakes caused some loss of human life, and a prodigious tidal wave swept inland . . . drowning a number of natives] The 1840 eruption was attended by neither loss of life nor a tidal wave. Clemens may have had in mind the devastating volcanic and seismic activity of March–April 1868, vivid reports of which (in the San Francisco newspapers) had prompted him to inform his lecture agent on 12 May that he intended to “revamp my Sandwich Islands talk & put in this superb eruption 3 weeks ago” ( L1 , 216–17). The eruption was also described by Titus Munson Coan (son of Titus Coan) in the September 1868 issue of Harper’s New Monthly Magazine: “At the same time with the earth eruption the sea receded far below the low-water-mark. Pausing a few seconds, as if gathering its power, it leaped upon the shore in a wave forty feet high, that swept every thing before it. . . . Nearly a hundred persons were drowned” (Titus Munson Coan, 557–58).