Explanatory Notes
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Apparatus Notes
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CHAPTER 69
[begin page 475]

CHAPTER 69emendation

Bound emendation for Hawaii, (a hundred and fifty miles distant,)emendation to visit the great volcano and behold the other notable things which distinguish thatemendation island above the remainder of the group, we sailed from Honolulu on a certain Saturday afternoon, in the good schooner Boomerangexplanatory note.

The Boomerang was about as long as two street cars, and about as wide as one. She was so small (though she was larger than the majority of the inter-island coasters) that when I stood on her deck I felt but little smaller than the Colossus of Rhodes must have felt when he had a man-of-war under him. I could reach the water when she lay over under a strong breeze. When the captainemendation and my comrade (a Mr. Billings)explanatory note,emendation myself and four other personsemendation were all assembled on the little after portion of the deck which is sacred to the cabin passengers, it was full—there was not room for any more quality folks. Another section of the deck, twice as large as ours, was full of natives of both sexes, with their customary dogs, mats, blankets, pipes, calabashes of poi, fleas, and other luxuries and baggage of minor importance. As soon as we set sail the natives all layemendation down on the deck as thick as negroes in a slave-pen, and smoked, conversed, andemendation spit on each other, and were truly sociable.

The little low-ceiled cabin below was rather larger than a hearse, and as dark as a vault. It had two coffins on each side—I mean two bunksemendation. A small table, capable of accommodating three persons at dinner, stood against the forward bulkhead, and over it hung the dingiest whale-oil lantern that ever peopled the obscurity of a dungeon with ghostlyemendation shapes. The floor room unoccupied was not extensive. One might swing a cat in it, perhaps, but not a long catemendation. The hold forward of the bulkhead had but little freight in it, and from morning till night a portlyemendation old rooster, with a voice like Balaam’semendation [begin page 476] assexplanatory note, and the same disposition to use it, strutted up and down in that part of the vessel and crowed. He usually took dinner at sixemendation o’clock, and then, after an hour devoted to meditation, he mounted a barrel and crowed a good part of the night. He got hoarser and hoarser all the time, but he scorned to allow any personal consideration to interfere with his duty, and kept up his labors in defiance of threatened diphtheria.

a passenger.

Sleeping was out of the question when he was on watch. He was a source of genuine aggravation and annoyanceemendation. It was worse than useless to shout at him or apply offensive epithets to him—he only took these things for applause, and strained himself to make more noise. Occasionally, during the day, I threw potatoes at him through an aperture in the bulkhead, but he only dodgedemendation and went on crowing.

The first night, as I lay in my coffin, idly watching the dim lamp swinging to the rolling of the ship, and snuffing the nauseous odors of bilge water, I felt something gallop over me. I turned out promptlyemendation. However, I turned in again when I found it was only a rat. Presently something galloped over me once more. I knew it was not a rat this time, and I thought it might be a centipede, because the captainemendation had killed one on deck in the afternoon. I turned out. The first glance at the pillow showed me a repulsive sentinel perched upon each end of it—cockroaches as large as peach leaves—fellows with long, quivering antennæ and fiery, malignant eyes. They were grating their teeth like tobacco worms, and appeared to be dissatisfied about something. I had often heard that these reptiles were in the habit of eating off sleeping sailors’ toe nails down to the quick, and I would not get in the bunk any more. I layemendation down on the floor. But a rat came and bothered me, and shortly afterward a procession of cockroaches arrived and camped in my hair. In a few moments the rooster was crowing with uncommon spirit and a party of fleas were throwing double summersetsemendation about my person in the wildest disorder, and taking a bite every time they struck. I was beginning to feel really annoyed. I got up and put my clothes on and went on deck.

[begin page 477] The above is not overdrawn; it isemendation a truthful sketch of inter-island schooner life. There is no such thing as keeping a vessel in elegant conditionemendation, when she carries molasses and Kanakas.

moonlight on the water.

Itemendation was compensation for myemendation sufferings to come unexpectedly upon so beautiful a scene as met my eye—to step suddenly out of the sepulchral gloom of the cabin and stand under the strong light of the moon—in the centreemendation, as it were, of a glittering sea of liquidsilver—emendation to see the broad sails straining in the gale, the ship heeledemendation over on her side, the angry foam hissing past her lee bulwarks, and sparkling sheets of spray dashing high over her bows and raining upon her decks; to brace myself and hang fast to the first object that presented itself, with hat jammed down and coat tails whipping in the breeze, and feel that exhilaration that thrills in one’s hair and quivers down his back-boneemendation when he knows that every inch of canvas is drawing and the vessel cleaving through the wavesemendation at her utmost speed. There was no darkness, no dimness, no obscurity there. All was brightness, every object was vividly defined. Every prostrate Kanaka; every coil of rope; every calabash of poi; every puppy; every seam in the flooring; every bolthead; every object, however minute, showed sharp and distinct in its every [begin page 478] outline; and the shadow of the broad mainsail lay black as a pall upon the deck, leaving Billings’semendation white upturned faceexplanatory note glorified and his body in a total eclipse.emendation

Monday morning we were close to the island of Hawaii. Two of its high mountains were in view—Mauna Loa and Hualalaiemendation. The latter is an imposing peak, but being only ten thousand feet high is seldom mentioned or heard of. Mauna Loa is said to be sixteenemendation thousand feet highexplanatory note. The rays of glittering snow and ice, that clasped its summit like a claw, looked refreshing when viewed from the blistering climate we were in. One could stand on that mountain (wrapped up in blankets and furs to keep warm), and while he nibbled a snow-ball or an icicle to quench his thirst he could look down the long sweep of its sides and see spots where plants are growing that grow only where the bitter cold of winteremendation prevails; lower down he could see sections devoted to productions that thrive in the temperate zone alone; and at the bottom of the mountain he could see the home of the tufted cocoa palms and other species of vegetation that grow only in the sultry atmosphere of eternal summeremendation. He could see all the climes of the world at a single glance of the eye, and that glance would only pass over a distance of four or fiveemendation miles as the bird flies!

By and by we took boat and went ashore at Kailua, designing to ride horseback through the pleasant orange and coffee region of Kona, and rejoin the vessel at a point some leagues distantexplanatory note. This journey is well worth taking. The trail passesemendation along on high ground—say a thousand feet above sea level—and usually about a mile distant from the ocean, which is always in sight, save that occasionally you find yourself buried in the forest in the midst of a rank, tropical vegetation and a dense growth of trees, whose great boughsemendation overarch the road and shut out sun and sea and everything, and leave you in a dim, shady tunnel, haunted with invisible singing birds and fragrant with the odor of flowers. It was pleasant to ride occasionally in the warm sun, and feast the eye upon the everchanging panorama of the forest (beyond and below us), with its many tints, its softened lights and shadows, its billowyemendation undulations sweeping gently down from the mountain to the sea. It was pleasant also, at intervals, to leave the sultry sun and pass into the cool, green depths of this forest and indulge in sentimental reflections under the inspiration of its brooding twilight and its whispering foliage.

[begin page 479]
going into the mountains.

[begin page 480] We rode through one orange grove that had ten thousand trees in it! They were all laden with fruit.explanatory note emendation

Atemendation one farmhouse we got some large peaches of excellent flavoremendation. This fruit, as a general thing, does not do well in the Sandwich Islands. It takes a sort of almond shape, and is small and bitter. It needs frost, they say, and perhaps it does; if this be so, it will have a good opportunity to go on needing it, as it will not be likely to get it. The trees from which the fine fruit I have spoken of came had been planted and replanted sixteen times emendation, and to this treatment the proprietor of the orchard attributed his success.

We passed several sugar plantations—new ones and not very extensive. The crops were, in most cases, third rattoons. [Note.—The first crop is called “plant cane;” subsequent crops which spring from the original roots, without replanting,emendation are called “rattoons.”] Almost everywhere on the island of Hawaii sugar-cane matures in twelve months, both rattoons and plant, and although it ought to be taken off as soon as it tassels, no doubt, it is not absolutely necessary to do it until about four months afterward. In Kona, the average yield of an acre of ground is two tons emendation of sugar, they say. This is only a moderate yield for these islands, but would be astoundingemendation for Louisiana and most other sugar growing countries. The plantations in Kona being on pretty high ground—up among the light and frequent rains—no irrigation whatever is required.explanatory note explanatory note emendation

Editorial Emendations CHAPTER 69
  Dogs . . . CHAPTER 69 (C)  •  Dogs . . . CHAPTER LXIX. (A)  not in (SU) 
  Bound  (A)  •  indented from right Honolulu, July, 1866. centered At Sea Again. [¶] Bound (SU) 
  (a hundred and fifty miles distant,) (A)  •  not in  (SU) 
  that (A)  •  this (SU) 
  captain (C)  •  Captain (SU) 
  my comrade (a Mr. Billings), (A)  •  Brown and (SU) 
  persons (A)  •  gentlemen and the wheelsman (SU) 
  lay (A)  •  laid (SU) 
  smoked, conversed, and (A)  •  smoked and conversed and captured vermin and eat them, (SU) 
  bunks (A)  •  bunks—though Mr. Brown, with that spirit of irreverence which is so sad a feature of his nature, preferred to call the bunk he was allotted his shelf (SU) 
  ghostly (A)  •  grim and ghostly (SU) 
  not a long cat (A)  •  then it would be fatal to the cat to do it (SU) 
  portly (A)  •  villainous (SU) 
  Balaam’s (C)  •  Baalam’s (SU A) 
  six (A)  •  6 (SU) 
  annoyance (A)  •  annoyance to me (SU) 
  only dodged (A)  •  simply dodged them (SU) 
  I turned out promptly (A)  •  Lazarus did not come out of his sepulchre with a more cheerful alacrity than I did out of mine (SU) 
  captain (C)  •  Captain (SU) 
  lay (A)  •  laid (SU) 
  summersets (SU)  •  somersaults (A) 
  overdrawn; it is (A)  •  an attempt to be spicy; it is simply an attempt to give (SU) 
  condition (A)  •  condition, I think (SU) 
  It (A)  •  centered “Roll On, Silver Moon.” [¶] It (SU) 
  my (A)  •  all my (SU) 
  centre (A)  •  center (SU) 
  silver— (A)  •  silver, (SU) 
  heeled (C)  •  keeled (SU A) 
  back-bone (C)  •  back bone (SU) 
  waves (A)  •  billows (SU) 
  Billings’s (A)  •  Brown’s (SU) 
  eclipse. (A)  •  eclipse. centered I Endeavor to Entertain the Seasick Man. [¶] I turned to look down upon the sparkling animalculæ of the South Seas and watch the train of jeweled fire they made in the wake of the vessel. I——[¶] “Oh, me!” [¶] “What is the matter, Brown?” [¶] “Oh, me!” [¶] “You said that before, Brown. Such tautology——” [¶] “Tautology be hanged! This is no time to talk to a man about tautology when he is sick—so sick—oh, my! and has vomited up his heart and—ah, me—oh hand me that soup dish, and don’t stand there hanging to that bulkhead looking like a fool!” [¶] I handed him the absurd tin shaving-pot, called “berth-pan,” which they hang by a hook to the edge of a berth for the use of distressed landsmen with unsettled stomachs, but all the sufferer’s efforts were fruitless—his tortured stomach refused to yield up its cargo. [¶] I do not often pity this bitter enemy to sentiment—he would not thank me for it, anyhow—but now I did pity him; and I pitied him from the bottom of my heart. Any man, with any feeling, must have been touched to see him in such misery. I did not try to help him—indeed I did not even think of so unpromising a thing—but I sat down by him to talk to him and so cause the tedious hours to pass less wearily, if possible. I talked to him for some time, but strangely enough, pathetic narratives did not move his emotions, eloquent declamation did not inspirit him, and the most humorous anecdotes failed to make him even smile. He seemed as distressed and restless, at intervals—albeit the rule of his present case was to seem to look like an allegory of unconditional surrender—hopeless, helpless and indifferent—he seemed as distressed and restless as if my conversation and my anecdotes were irksome to him. It was because of this that at last I dropped into poetry. I said I had been writing a poem—or rather, been paraphrasing a passage in Shakspeare—a passage full of wisdom, which I thought I might remember easier if I reduced it to rhyme—hoped it would be pleasant to him—said I had taken but few liberties with the original; had preserved its brevity and terseness, its language as nearly as possible, and its ideas in their regular sequence—and proceeded to read it to him, as follows:
PALONIUS’ ADVICE TO HIS SON—
PARAPHRASED FROM HAMLET.

Beware of the spoken word! Be wise;
Bury thy thoughts in thy breast;
Nor let thoughts that are unnatural
Be ever in acts expressed.

Be thou courteous and kindly toward all—Be
familiar and vulgar with none;
But the friends thou hast proved in thy need,
Hold thou fast till life’s mission is done!

Shake not thy faith by confiding
In every new-begot friend.
Beware thou of quarrels—but, in them,
Fight them out to the bitter end.

Give thine ear unto all that would seek it,
But to few thy voice impart;
Receive and consider all censure,
But thy judgment seal in thy heart.

Let thy habit be ever as costly
As thy purse is able to span;
Never gaudy, but rich—for the raiment
Full often proclaimeth the man.

Neither borrow nor lend—oft a loan
Both loseth itself and a friend,
And to borrow relaxeth the thrift
Whereby husbandry gaineth its end.

But lo! above all set this law:
Unto thyself be thou true!
Then never toward any canst thou
The deed of a false heart do.
[¶] As I finished, Brown’s stomach cast up its contents, and in a minute or two he felt entirely relieved and comfortable. He then said that the anecdotes and the eloquence were “no good,” but if he got seasick again he would like some more poetry. centered The Zones of the Earth Concentrated.  (SU) 
  Hualalai (SU)  •  Hualaiai (A) 
  said to be sixteen (A)  •  fourteen (SU) 
  winter (C)  •  Winter (SU) 
  summer (C)  •  Summer (A)  Summers (SU) 
  four or five (A)  •  eight or ten (SU) 
  flies! . . . passes (A)  •  flies. centered The Refuge for the Weary. [¶] We landed at Kailua (pronounced Ki-loo-ah), a little collection of native grass houses reposing under tall cocoanut trees—the sleepiest, quietest, Sundayest looking place you can imagine. Ye weary ones that are sick of the labor and care, and the bewildering turmoil of the great world, and sigh for a land where ye may fold your tired hands and slumber your lives peacefully away, pack up your carpet-sacks and go to Kailua! A week there ought to cure the saddest of you all. [¶] An old ruin of lava-block walls down by the sea was pointed out as a fort built by John Adams for Kamehameha I, and mounted with heavy guns—some of them 32-pounders—by the same sagacious Englishman. I was told the fort was dismantled a few years ago, and the guns sold in San Francisco for old iron—which was very improbable. I was told that an adjacent ruin was old Kamehameha’s sleeping-house; another, his eating-house; another, his god’s house; another, his wife’s eating-house—for by the ancient tabu system, it was death for man and woman to eat together. Every married man’s premises comprised five or six houses. This was the law of the land. It was this custom, no doubt, which has left every pleasant valley in these islands marked with the ruins of numerous house inclosures, and given strangers the impression that the population must have been vast before those houses were deserted; but the argument loses much of its force when you come to consider that the houses absolutely necessary for half a dozen married men were sufficient in themselves to form one of the deserted “villages” so frequently pointed out to the “Californian” (to the natives all whites are haoles—how-ries—that is, strangers, or, more properly, foreigners; and to the white residents all white new comers are “Californians”—the term is used more for convenience that anything else). [¶] I was told, also, that Kailua was old Kamehameha’s favorite place of residence, and that it was always a favorite place of resort with his successors. Very well, if Kailua suits these Kings—all right. Every man to his taste; but, as Brown observed in this connection, “You’ll excuse me.” centered Stewed Chicken—Miraculous Bread. [¶] I was told a good many other things concerning Kailua—not one of which interested me in the least. I was weary and worn with the plunging of the Boomerang in the always stormy passages between the islands; I was tired of hanging on by teeth and toe-  |  nails; and, above all, I was tired of stewed chicken. All I wanted was an hour’s rest on a foundation that would let me stand up straight without running any risk—but no information; I wanted something to eat that was not stewed chicken—I didn’t care what—but no information. I took no notes, and had no inclination to take any. [¶] Now, the foregoing is nothing but the feverish irritability of a short, rough sea-voyage coming to the surface—a voyage so short that it affords no time for you to tone down and grow quiet and reconciled, and get your stomach in order, and the bad taste out of your mouth, and the unhealthy coating off your tongue. I snarled at the old rooster and the cockroaches and the national stewed chicken all the time—not because these troubles could be removed, but only because it was a sanitary necessity to snarl at something or perish. One’s salt-water spleen must be growled out of the system—there is no other relief. I pined—I longed—I yearned to growl at the Captain himself, but there was no opening. The man had had such passengers before, I suppose, and knew how to handle them, and so he was polite and pains-taking and accommodating—and most exasperatingly patient and even-tempered. So I said to myself “I will take it out of your old schooner, anyhow; I will blackguard the Boomerang in the public prints, to pay for your shameless good-nature when your passengers are peevish and actually need somebody to growl at for very relief!” [¶] But now that I am restored by the land breeze, I wonder at my ingratitude; for no man ever treated me better than Captain Kangaroo did on board his ship. As for the stewed chicken—that last and meanest substitute for something to eat—that soothing rubbish for toothless infants—that diet for cholera patients in the rice-water stage—it was of course about the best food we could have at sea, and so I only abused it because I hated it as I do sardines or tomatoes, and because it was stewed chicken, and because it was such a relief to abuse somebody or something. But Kangaroo—I never abused Captain Kangaroo. I hope I have a better heart than to abuse a man who, with the kindest and most generous and unselfish motive in the world, went into the galley, and with his own hands baked for me the worst piece of bread I ever ate in my life. His motive was good, his desire to help me was sincere, but his execution was damnable. You see, I was not sick, but nothing would taste good to me; the Kanaka cook’s bread was particularly unpalatable; he was a new hand—the regular cook being sick and helpless below—and Captain Kangaroo, in the genuine goodness of his heart, felt for me in my distress and went down and made that most infernal bread. I ate one of those rolls—I would have eaten it if it had killed me—and said to myself: “It is on my stomach; ’tis well; if it were on my conscience, life would be a burden to me.” I carried one up to Brown and he ate a piece, but declined to experiment further. I insisted, but he said no, he didn’t want any more ballast. When the good deeds of men are judged in the Great Day that is to bring bliss or eternal woe unto us all, the charity that was in Captain Kangaroo’s heart will be remembered and rewarded, albeit his bread will have been forgotten for ages. centered The Famous Orange and Coffee Region. [¶] It was only about fifteen miles from Kailua to Kealakekua Bay, either by sea or land, but by the former route there was a point to be weathered where the ship would be the sport of contrary winds for hours, and she would probably occupy the entire day in making the trip, whereas we could do it on horseback in a little while and have the cheering benefit of a respite from the discomforts we had been experiencing on the vessel. We hired horses from the Kanakas, and miserable affairs they were, too. They had lived on meditation all their lives, no doubt, for Kailua is fruitful in nothing else. I will mention, in this place, that horses are plenty everywhere in the Sandwich Islands—no Kanaka is without one or more—but when you travel from one island to another, it is necessary to take your own saddle and bridle, for these articles are scarce. It is singular baggage for a sea voyage, but it will not do to go without it. [¶] The ride through the district of Kona to Kealakekua Bay took us through the famous coffee and orange section. I think the Kona coffee has a richer flavor than any other, be it grown where it may and call it by what name you please. At one time it was cultivated quite extensively, and promised to become one of the great staples of Hawaiian commerce; but the heaviest crop ever raised was almost entirely destroyed by a blight, and this, together with heavy American customs duties, had the effect of suddenly checking enterprise in this direction. For several years the coffee-growers fought the blight with all manner of cures and preventives, but with small success, and at length some of the less persevering abandoned coffee-growing altogether and turned their attention to more encouraging pursuits. The coffee interest has not yet recovered its former importance, but is improving slowly. The exportation of this article last year was over 263,000 pounds, and it is expected that the present year’s yield will be much greater. Contrast the progress of the coffee interest with that of sugar, and the demoralizing effects of the blight upon the former will be more readily seen.

exportations.

1852. 1865.
Coffee, pounds . . . . 117,000 263,000
Sugar, pounds . . . . . 730,000 15,318,097
[¶] Thus the sugar yield of last year was more than twenty times what it was in 1852, while the coffee yield has scarcely more than doubled. [¶] The coffee plantations we encountered in our short journey looked well, and we were told that the crop was unusually promising. [¶] There are no finer oranges in the world than those produced in the district of Kona; when new and fresh they are delicious. The principal market for them is California, but of course they lose much of their excellence by so long a voyage. About 500,000 oranges were exported last year against 15,000 in 1852. The orange culture is safe and sure, and is being more and more extensively engaged in every year. We passed one orchard that contained ten thousand orange trees. [¶] There are many species of beautiful trees in Kona—noble forests of them—and we had numberless opportunities of contrasting the orange with them. The verdict rested with the orange. Among the varied and handsome foliage of the Ko, Koa, Kukui, bread-  |  fruit, mango, guava, peach, citron, ohia and other fine trees, its dark, rich green cone was sure to arrest the eye and compel constant exclamations of admiration. So dark a green is its foliage, that at a distance of a quarter of a mile the orange tree looks almost black. centered Woodland Scenery. [¶] The ride from Kailua to Kealakekua Bay is worth taking. It passes (SU) 
  boughs (SU)  •  bows (A) 
  billowy (A)  •  hillowy (SU) 
  We . . . fruit. (A)  •  no The jaunt through Kona will always be to me a happy memory. indented from right MARK TWAIN. (SU) 
  At (A)  •  indented from right Kona (Sandwich Islands), July, 1866. centered Still in Kona—Concerning Matters and Things. [¶] At (SU) 
  flavor (A)  •  flavor while on our horseback ride through Kona (SU) 
  sixteen times  (A)  •  over and over again (SU) 
  replanting, (A)  •  replanting  (SU) 
  two tons  (A)  •  two tons (SU) 
  astounding (A)  •  extraordinary (SU) 
  required. (A)  •  required. [¶] In Central Kona there is but little idle cane land now, but there is a good deal in North and South Kona. There are thousands of acres of cane land unoccupied on the island of Hawaii, and the prices asked for it range from one dollar to a hundred and fifty an acre. It is owned by common natives, and is lying “out of doors.” They make no use of it whatever, and yet, here lately, they seem disinclined to either lease or sell it. I was frequently told this. In this connection it may not be out of place to insert an extract from a book of Hawaiian travels recently published by a visiting minister of the gospel: [¶] “Well, now, I wouldn’t, if I was you.” [¶] “Brown, I wish you wouldn’t look over my shoulder when I am writing; and I wish you would indulge yourself in some little respite from my affairs and interest yourself in your own business sometimes.” [¶] “Well, I don’t care. I’m disgusted with these mush-and-milk preacher travels, and I wouldn’t make an extract from one of them. Father Damon has got stacks of books shoemakered up by them pious bushwhackers from America, and they’re the flattest reading—they are sicker than the smart things children say in the newspapers. Every preacher that gets lazy comes to the Sandwich Islands to ‘recruit his health,’ and then he goes back home and writes a book. And he puts in a lot of history, and some legends, and some manners and customs, and dead loads of praise of the missionaries for civilizing and Christianizing the natives, and says in considerable chapters how grateful the savage ought to be; and when there is a chapter to be filled out, and they haven’t got anything to fill it out with, they shovel in a lot of Scripture—now don’t they? You just look at Rev. Cheever’s book and Anderson’s—and when they come to the volcano, or any sort of heavy scenery, and it is too much bother to describe it, they shovel in another lot of Scripture, and wind up with ‘Lo! what God hath wrought!’ Confound their lazy melts! Now, I wouldn’t make extracts out of no such bosh.” [¶] “Mr. Brown, I brought you with me on this voyage merely because a newspaper correspondent should travel in some degree of state, and so command the respect of strangers; I did not expect you to assist me in my literary labors with your crude ideas. You may desist from further straining your intellect for the present, Mr. Brown, and proceed to the nearest depot and replenish the correspondent fountain of inspiration.” [¶] “Fountain dry now, of course. Confound me if I ever chance an opinion but I’ve got to trot down to the soda factory and fill up that cursed jug again. It seems to me that you need more inspiration——” [¶] “Good afternoon, Brown.” [¶] The extract I was speaking of reads as follows: [¶] “We were in North Kona  The arable uplands in both the Konas are owned chiefly by foreigners. Indeed, the best of the lands on all the islands appear to be fast going into foreign hands; and one of the allegations made to me by a foreign resident against the missionaries was that their influence was against such a transfer. The Rev. Mr. —— told me, however, that to prevent the lands immediately about him, once owned by the admirable Kapiolani, from going to strangers he knew not who, he had felt obliged to invest his own private funds in them.” [¶] We naturally swell with admiration when we contemplate a sacrifice like this. But while I read the generous last words of that extract, it fills me with inexpressible satisfaction to know that the Rev. Mr. —— had his reward. He paid fifteen hundred dollars for one of those pieces of land; he did not have to keep it long; without sticking a spade into it he sold it to a foreigner for ten thousand dollars in gold. Yet there be those among us who fear to trust the precious promise, “Cast thy bread upon the waters and it shall return unto thee after many days.” [¶] I have since been told that the original $1,500 belonged to a ward of the missionary, and that inasmuch as the latter was investing it with the main view to doing his charge the best service in his power, and doubtless would not have felt at liberty to so invest it merely to protect the poor natives, his glorification in the book was not particularly gratifying to him. The other missionaries smile at the idea of their tribe “investing their own private funds” in this free and easy, this gay and affluent way—buying fifteen hundred dollars worth of land at a dash (salary $400 a year), and merely to do a trifling favor to some savage neighbor. (SU) 
Explanatory Notes CHAPTER 69
  [begin page 726] Bound . . . fruit.] Mark Twain based this portion of the text on his letter in the Sacramento Union of 18 August 1866, revising it for inclusion in Roughing It (SLC 1866bb).
 we sailed from Honolulu . . . in the good schooner Boomerang] Clemens sailed for the island of Hawaii on Saturday, 26 May, aboard the schooner Emeline, and returned to Honolulu three weeks later. The Roughing It account somewhat skews the chronology of Clemens’s Sandwich Islands sojourn. His attendance at the funeral of Princess Victoria on 30 June, described in chapter 68, actually followed his trip to Hawaii; and his trip to Maui, mentioned briefly in chapters 76 and 77, in fact preceded the Hawaii trip ( N&J1 , 101; Honolulu Pacific Commercial Advertiser: “Departures,” 2 June 66, 2; “Passengers,” 16 June 66, 2).
 the captain and my comrade (a Mr. Billings)] The Emeline’s skipper was Captain Crane, not further identified. Mark Twain altered his traveling companion’s name from “Brown” to “Billings” when revising his 18 August Union letter; see the note at 447.31 (“Departures,” Honolulu Pacific Commercial Advertiser, 2 June 66, 2; SLC 1866bb, 1866gg).
 Balaam’s ass] Numbers 22:21–33.
 Billings’s white upturned face] In revising his 18 August Union letter Mark Twain deleted a passage beginning here in which he made clear that Brown/Billings was lying seasick on the deck (SLC 1866bb).
 Hualalai . . . being only ten thousand feet high . . . Mauna Loa is said to be sixteen thousand feet high] Modern measurements give elevations of 8,276 and 13,680 feet, respectively, for Hualalai and Mauna Loa. In his 18 August Union letter, Mark Twain gave Mauna Loa’s elevation more accurately as 14,000 feet, then apparently revised the figure upward for Roughing It. The sources for his rather high figures are not known for certain, but two possibilities have been identified. James D. Dana of the 1838–42 United States Exploring Expedition (see the note at 523.30–31) estimated the elevation of Hualalai as “not far from 10,000 feet” (Dana, 156), a figure echoed by Rufus Anderson in The Hawaiian Islands: Their Progress and Condition under Missionary Labors, a book that Clemens is known to have consulted (he quoted a passage from it, without specific attribution, in his Union letter published on 24 August). Captain James King, in the final volume of Cook’s Voyage to the Pacific Ocean (1784), reported Mauna Loa to be “at least 16,020 feet high” (Cook and King, 3:103; SLC 1866bb–cc; Rufus Anderson, 128).
 we . . . went ashore at Kailua, designing to . . . rejoin the vessel at a point some leagues distant] On 28 May Clemens, apparently accompanied by another passenger on the Emeline, went ashore at the [begin page 727] village of Kailua, in the Kona district on the west shore of Hawaii. They rode overland on horseback about fifteen miles to Kealakekua Bay, south of Kailua, reboarding the Emeline there around midnight. The Roughing It account of this journey omits many details found in Mark Twain’s Union letters published on 18, 24, and 30 August ( MTH , 62; SLC 1866bb–cc , 1866ee).
 At . . . required.] Mark Twain based this portion of the text on the first half of his letter in the Sacramento Union of 24 August 1866, revising it for inclusion in Roughing It; he reserved the second half for use in chapter 71 (SLC 1866cc; see the note at 489.1–491.24).
 We passed several sugar plantations . . . no irrigation whatever is required] Mark Twain confined his remarks in Roughing It on the subject of the islands’ sugar production to this paragraph. He made no use of his Union letter published on 26 September, which—possibly at the behest of the Union—was largely devoted to the subject. Many years later he asserted, “Circumstance and the Sacramento Union sent me to the Sandwich Islands for five or six months, to write up sugar. I did it; and threw in a good deal of extraneous matter that hadn’t anything to do with sugar” (SLC 1910, 1866hh).