Explanatory Notes
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Apparatus Notes
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CHAPTER 57
[begin page 391]

CHAPTER 57emendation

It was in this Sacramento Valley, just referred to,emendation that a deal of the most lucrative of the early gold mining was done, and you may still see, in places, its grassy slopes and levels torn and guttered and disfigured by the avaricious spoilers of fifteen and twenty years ago. You may see such disfigurements far and wide over California—and in some such places, where only meadows and forests are visible—not a living creature, not a house, no stick or stone or remnant of a ruin, and not a sound, not even a whisper to disturb the Sabbath stillness—you will find it hard to believe that there stood at one time a fiercely-flourishingemendation little city, of two thousand or three thousand souls, with its newspaper, fire company, brass band, volunteer militia, bank, hotels, noisy Fourth of July processions and speeches, gambling hells crammed with tobacco smoke, profanity, and rough-bearded men of all nations and colors, with tables heaped with goldemendation dust sufficient for the revenues of a German principality—streets crowded and rife with business—town lots worth four hundred dollarsemendation a front foot—labor, laughter, music, dancing, swearing, fighting, shooting, stabbing—a bloody inquest and a man for breakfast every morning— everything emendation that delights and adorns existenceemendation—all the appointments and appurtenances of a thriving and prosperous and promising young city,—and now nothing is left of it allemendation but a lifeless, homeless solitude. The men are gone, the houses have vanished, even the name of the place is forgotten. In no other land, in modern times, haveemendation towns so absolutely died and disappearedemendation, as in the old mining regions of California.

Itemendation was a driving, vigorous, restless population in those days. It was a curious population. It was the only population of the kind that the world has ever seen gathered together, and it is not likely that the world will ever see its like again. For, observeemendation, it was an [begin page 392] assemblage of two hundred thousandemendation young men—not simpering, dainty, kid-gloved weaklings, but stalwart, muscular, dauntless young braves, brim fullemendation of push and energy, and royally endowed with every attribute that goes to make up a peerless and magnificent manhood—the very pick and choice of the world’s glorious ones. No women, no children, no gray and stooping veterans,—none but erect, bright-eyed, quick-moving, strong-handed young giants—the strangest population, the finest population, the most gallant host that ever trooped down the startled solitudes of an un-peopled land. And where are they now? Scattered to the ends of the earth—or prematurely aged and decrepit—or shot or stabbed in street affrays—or dead of disappointed hopes and broken hearts—all gone, or nearly all—victims devoted upon the altar of the golden calf—the noblest holocaust that ever wafted its sacrificial incense heavenward. It is pitiful to think uponemendation.

It was a splendid population—for all the slow, sleepy, sluggish-brained sloths staid at home—you never find that sort of people among pioneers—you cannotemendation build pioneers out of that sort of material. It was that population that gave to California a name for getting up astounding enterprisesemendation and rushing them through with a magnificent dash and daring, and a recklessnessemendation of cost or consequences, which she bears unto this day—and when she projects a new surpriseemendation, the grave world smilesemendation as usual, and says “well, that is California all over.”explanatory note

Butemendation they were rough in those times! They fairly reveled in gold, whisky, fights and fandangoes, and were unspeakably happy. The honest miner raked fromemendation a hundred to a thousand dollars out of his claim a day, and what with the gambling densemendation and the other entertainments, he hadn’t a cent the next morning, if he had any sort of luck. They cooked their own bacon and beans, sewed on their own buttons, washed their own shirts—blue woolenemendation ones—and if a man wanted a fight on his hands without any annoying delay, all he had to do was to appear in public in a white shirt or a stove-pipe hat, and he would be accommodated. For those people hated aristocrats. They had a particular and malignant animosity toward what they called a “biled shirt.”

It was a wild, free, disorderly, grotesque society! Men—only swarming hosts of stalwart men—nothing juvenile, nothing feminine, visible anywhere!emendation

[begin page 393] Inemendation those days minersemendation would flock in crowds to catch a glimpse of that rare and blessed spectacle, a woman! Old inhabitants tell how, in a certain camp, the news went abroad early in the morning that a woman was come! They had seen a calico dress hanging out of a wagon down at the camping ground—sign of emigrants from over the great plains. Everybody went down there, and a shout went up when an actual, bona-fideemendation dress was discovered fluttering in the wind! The male emigrant was visible. The miners said:

“Fetch her out!”

He said: “It is my wife, gentlemen—she is sick—we have been robbed of money, provisions, everything, by the Indians—we want to rest.”

“Fetch her out! We’ve got to see her!”emendation

“But, gentlemen, the poor thing, she—”

Fetch her out!”emendation

fetch her out!emendation

He “fetched her out,” and they swung their hats and sent up three rousing cheers and a tiger; and they crowded around and gazed at her, and touched her dress, and listened to her voice with the look of men who listened to a memory rather than a present reality—and then they collected twenty-five hundred dollars in [begin page 394] gold and gave it to the man, and swung their hats again and gave three more cheers, and went home satisfied.

Onceemendation I dined in San Francisco with the family of a pioneer, and talked with his daughter, a young lady whose first experience in San Francisco was an adventure, though she herself did not remember it, as she was only two or three years old at the time. Her father said that, after landing from the ship, they were walking up the street, a servant leading the party with the little girl in her arms. And presently a huge miner, bearded, belted, spurred, and bristling with deadly weapons—just down from a long campaignemendation in the mountains, evidently—emendation barred the way, stopped the servant, and stood gazing, with a face all alive with gratification and astonishment. Then he said, reverently:

“Well, if it ain’t a child!” And then he snatched a little leather sack out of his pocket and said to the servant:

well, if it ain’t a child!”

“There’s a hundred and fifty dollars in dust, there, and I’ll give it to you to let me kiss the child!”

That anecdote is true.

But see how things change. Sitting at that dinner table, listening to that anecdote, if I had offered double the money for the privilege [begin page 395] of kissing the same child, I would have been refused. Seventeen added years haveemendation far more than doubled the price.

a genuine live woman.emendation

Andemendation while upon this subject I will remark that once in Star Cityexplanatory note, in the Humboldt Mountains, I took my place in a sort of long, post-office single fileemendation of miners, to patiently await my chance to peep through a crack in theemendation cabin and get a sight of theemendation splendid new sensation—a genuine, live Woman! And at the end of halfemendation an hourtextual note my turn came, and I put my eye to the crack, and there she was, with one arm akimbo, and tossing flap-jacks in a frying pan with the other. And she was one hundred and sixty-five* yearsemendation old, and hadn’t a tooth in her head.explanatory note emendation



*Being in calmer mood, now, I voluntarily knock off a hundred from that.—M. T.
Editorial Emendations CHAPTER 57
  CHAPTER 57 (C)  •  CHAPTER LVII. (A)  desolation. (BE) 
  Sacramento Valley, just referred to, (A)  •  Sac Valley (BE) 
  fiercely-flourishing (A)  •  wildly, fiercely-flourishing (BE) 
  gold (A)  •  glittering gold (BE) 
  four hundred dollars (A)  •  $400 (BE) 
  everything  (A)  •  every thing  (BE) 
  delights and adorns existence (A)  •  goes to make life happy and desirable (BE) 
  of it all (A)  •  not in  (BE) 
  land, in modern times, have (A)  •  land do (BE) 
  died and disappeared (A)  •  die and disappear (BE) 
  It (A)  •  centered the crusading host. [¶] It (BE) 
  observe (A)  •  mark you (BE) 
  two hundred thousand (A)  •  200,000 (BE) 
  brim full (C)  •  brimful (BE) 
  It is pitiful to think upon (A)  •  California has much to answer for in this destruction of the flower of the world’s young chivalry (BE) 
  cannot (A)  •  can not (BE) 
  enterprises (A)  •  enterprizes (BE) 
  recklessness (A)  •  princely recklessness (BE) 
  surprise (A)  •  astonisher (BE) 
  smiles (A)  •  smiles and admires (BE) 
  But (A)  •  centered CALIFORNIA—CONTINUED. centered the “early days.” [¶] But (BE) 
  from (A)  •  not in  (BE) 
  dens (A)  •  dues (BE) 
  woolen (C)  •  woollen (BE) 
  It . . . anywhere! (A)  •  In his sketch entitled “The Luck of Roaring Camp,” Mr. Bret Harte has deftly pictured the roughness and lawlessness of a California mining camp of the early days, and also its large-hearted charity and compassion—for these traits are found in all true pioneers. Roaring Camp becomes blessed by the presence of a wandering, sickly woman and her little child—rare and coveted treasures among rude men who still yearned in secret for the mothers and sisters and children they loved and cherished in other days. This wanderer—the only woman in Roaring Camp—died, and the honest miners took charge of the orphan little one in a body. They washed it and dressed it and fed it—getting its garments on wrong end first as often as any other way, and pinning the garments to the child occasionally and wondering why the baby wasn’t comfortable—and the food these inexperienced nurses lovingly concocted for it was often rather beyond its capabilities, since it was neither an alligator nor an ostrich. [¶] But they meant well, and the baby thrived in spite of the perilous kindnesses of the miners. But it was manifest that all could not nurse the baby at once, and so they passed a law that the best behaved man should have it for one day, and the man with the cleanest shirt the next day, and the man whose cabin was in the neatest order the next, and so on. And the result was, that a handsome cradle was bought, and carted from cabin to cabin, according to who won the privilege of nursing each day—and the handsome cradle made such a contrast to the unhandsome furniture, that gradually the unhandsome furniture disappeared and gave way for a neater sort—and then ambitious male nurses got to washing up and putting on clean garments every day, and some of them twice a day—and rough, boisterous characters became gentle and soft-spoken, since only the well-behaved could nurse the baby. And, in fine, the lawless Roaring Camp became insensibly transformed into a neat well-dressed, orderly and law-abiding community, the wonder and admiration of all the mining world. All this, through the dumb teaching, the humanizing influence, the uninspired ministering of a little child. (BE) 
  In (A)  •  centered the sex on exhibition. [¶] In (BE) 
  miners (A)  •  men (BE) 
  bona-fide (C)  •  bonafide (BE) 
  her!” (A)  •  her!  (BE) 
  “But . . . out!” (A)  •  That was the only reply. (BE) 
  out! (C)  •  out. (A) 
  Once (A)  •  centered exhorbitant rates. [¶] A year or two ago (BE) 
  campaign (A)  •  mining campaign (BE) 
  evidently— (A)  •  evidently  (BE) 
  have (A)  •  had (BE) 
  a genuine live woman. (C)  •  not in  (A) 
  And (A)  •  centered touching spectacle. [¶] And (BE) 
  single file (A)  •  single-file (BE) 
  the (A)  •  a (BE) 
  the (A)  •  th (BE) 
  half (C)  •  half of (A)  three-quarters of (BE) 
  one hundred and sixty-five* years (A)  •  165 yrs (BE) 
  head. (A)  •  head. However, she was a woman and therefore we were glad to see her and to make her welcome. (BE) 
Textual Notes CHAPTER 57
 half an hour] It seems probable that Mark Twain intended to substitute “half an hour” for “three-quarters of an hour” (the BE copy-text reading), and that either he miswrote his revision or the compositor failed to execute it properly: the result was a phrase uncharacteristic of Mark Twain. Since “half an hour” occurs frequently in manuscript, but “half of an hour” does not, the “of” has been emended.
Explanatory Notes CHAPTER 57
 The climate . . . over.”] Mark Twain first published this passage in a Buffalo Express “Around the World” letter on 13 November 1869; he revised the earlier printing for inclusion in Roughing It (SLC 1869m).
 But . . . head.] Mark Twain first published this passage in a Buffalo Express “Around the World” letter on 11 December 1869; he revised the earlier printing for inclusion in Roughing It (SLC 1869n).
 Star City] Clemens visited Star City, a few miles northeast of Unionville, during his prospecting trip to the Humboldt district in the winter of 1861–62 (see chapters 27–30 and supplement B, map 2). At its peak in 1864–65 Star City had a population of about twelve hundred, but by 1871 it was nearly abandoned (Angel, 458; Ransome, 10).