Explanatory Notes
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Apparatus Notes
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CHAPTER 43
[begin page 278]

CHAPTER 43

However, as I grew better acquainted with the business and learned the run of the sources of information I ceased to require the aid of fancy to any large extent, and became able to fill my columns without diverging noticeably from the domain of fact.

I struck up friendships with the reporters of the other journals, and we swapped “regulars” with each other and thus economized work. “Regulars” are permanent sources of news, like courts, bullion returns, “clean-ups” at the quartz mills, and inquests. Inasmuch as everybody went armed, we had an inquest about every day, and so this department was naturally set down among the “regulars.” We had lively papers in those days. My great competitor among the reporters was Boggs of the Union explanatory note. He was an excellent reporter. Once in three or four months he would get a little intoxicated, but as a general thing he was a wary and cautious drinker although always ready to tamper a little with the enemy. He had the advantage of me in one thing; he could get the monthly public school report and I could not, because the principal hated the Enterprise explanatory note. One snowy night when the report was due, I started out sadly wondering how I was going to get it. Presently, a few steps up the almost deserted street I stumbled on Boggs and asked him where he was going.

“After the school report.”

“I’ll go along with you.”

“No, sir. I’ll excuse you.”

“Just as you say.”

A saloon-keeper’s boy passed by with a steaming pitcher of hot punch, and Boggs snuffed the fragrance gratefully. He gazed fondly after the boy and saw him start up the Enterprise stairs. I said:

“I wish you could help me get that school business, but since you can’t, I must run up to the Union office and see if I can get [begin page 279] them to let me have a proof of it after they have set it up, though I don’t begin to suppose they will. Good night.”

“Hold on a minute. I don’t mind getting the report and sitting around with the boys a little, while you copy it, if you’re willing to drop down to the principal’s with me.”

“Now you talk like a rational being. Come along.”

an educational report.

We plowed a couple of blocks through the snow, got the report and returned to our office. It was a short document and soon copied. Meantime Boggs helped himself to the punch. I gave the manuscript back to him and we started out to get an inquest, for we heard pistol shots near by. We got the particulars with little loss of time, for it was only an inferior sort of bar-room murder, and of little interest to the public, and then we separated. Away at three o’clock in the morning, when we had gone to press and were having a relaxing concert as usual—for some of the printers were good singers and others good performers on the guitar and on that atrocity the accordeon—the proprietor of the Union explanatory note strode in and desired to know if anybody had heard anything of Boggs or the school report. We stated the case, and all turned out to help hunt for the delinquent. We found him standing on a table in a saloon, with an old tin lantern in one hand [begin page 280] and the school report in the other, haranguing a gang of intoxicated Cornish miners on the iniquity of squandering the public moneys on education “when hundreds and hundreds of honest hard-working men are literally starving for whiskyemendation.” [Riotous applause.] He had been assisting in a regal spree with those parties for hours. We dragged him away and put him to bed.

Of course there was no school report in the Union, and Boggs held me accountableexplanatory note, though I was innocent of any intention or desire to compass its absence from that paper and was as sorry as any one that the misfortune had occurred.

But we were perfectly friendly. The day that the school report was next due, the proprietor of the “Geneseeemendation” mineexplanatory note furnished us a buggy and asked us to go down and write something about the property—a very common request and one always gladly acceded to when people furnished buggies, for we were as fond of pleasure excursions as other people. In due time we arrived at the “mine”—nothing but a hole in the ground ninety feet deep, and no way of getting down into it but by holding on to a rope and being lowered with a windlass. The workmen had just gone off somewhere to dinner. I was not strong enough to lower Boggs’s bulk; so I took an unlighted candle in my teeth, made a loop for my foot in the end of the rope, implored Boggs not to go to sleep or let the windlass get the start of him, and then swung out over the shaft. I reached the bottom muddy and bruised about the elbows, but safe. I lit the candle, made an examination of the rock, selected some specimens and shouted to Boggs to hoist away. No answer. Presently a head appeared in the circle of daylight away aloft, and a voice came down:

“Are you all set?”

“All set—hoist away.”

“Are you comfortable?”

“Perfectly.”

“Could you wait a little?”

“Oh certainly—no particular hurry.”

“Well—good-byeemendation.”

“Why? Where are you going?”

“After the school report!”

And he did. I staid down there an hour, and surprised the workmen [begin page 281] when they hauled up and found a man on the rope instead of a bucket of rock. I walked home, too—five miles—up hill. We had no school report next morning; but the Union had.

no particular hurry.

Six months after my entry into journalism the grand “flush times” of Silverland began, and they continued with unabated splendor for three yearsexplanatory note. All difficulty about filling up the “local department” ceased, and the only trouble now was how to make the lengthened columns hold the world of incidents and happenings that came to our literary net every day. Virginia had grown to be the “livest” town, for its age and population, that America had [begin page 282] ever produced. The sidewalks swarmed with people—to such an extent, indeed, that it was generally no easy matter to stem the human tide. The streets themselves were just as crowded with quartz wagons, freight teams and other vehicles. The procession was endless. So great was the pack, that buggies frequently had to wait half an hour for an opportunity to cross the principal street. Joy sat on every countenance, and there was a glad, almost fierce, intensity in every eye, that told of the money-getting schemes that were seething in every brain and the high hope that held sway in every heart. Money was as plenty as dust; every individual considered himself wealthy, and a melancholy countenance was nowhere to be seen. There were military companies, fire companies, brass bands, banks, hotels, theatres, “hurdy-gurdy houses,” wide-open gambling palaces, political pow-wows, civic processions, street fights, murders, inquests, riots, a whiskyemendation mill every fifteen steps, a Board of Aldermen, a Mayor, a City Surveyor, a City Engineer, a Chief of the Fire Department, with First, Second and Third Assistants, a Chief of Police, City Marshal and a large police force, two Boards of Mining Brokers, a dozen breweries and half a dozen jails and station-houses in full operation, and some talk of building a church. The “flush times” were in magnificent flower! Large fire-proof brick buildings were going up in the principal streets, and the wooden suburbs were spreading out in all directions. Town lots soared up to prices that were amazing.

The great “Comstock lode” stretched its opulent length straight through the town from north to south, and every mine on it was in diligent process of development. One of these mines alone employed six hundred and seventy-five men, and in the matter of elections the adage was, “as the ‘Gould &emendation Curry’ goes, so goes the city.” Laboring men’s wages were four and six dollars a day, and they worked in three “shifts” or gangs, and the blasting and picking and shoveling went on without ceasing, night and day.

The “city” of Virginia roosted royally midway up the steep side of Mount Davidson, seven thousand two hundred feet above the level of the sea, and in the clear Nevada atmosphere was visible from a distance of fifty miles! It claimed a population of fifteen thousand to eighteen thousandexplanatory note, and all day long half of this little army swarmed the streets like bees and the other half swarmed [begin page 283] among the drifts and tunnels of the “Comstock,” hundreds of feet down in the earth directly under those same streets. Often we felt our chairs jar, and heard the faint boom of a blast down in the bowels of the earth under the office.

bird’s eye view of virginia and mount davidson.

The mountain side was so steep that the entire town had a slant to it like a roof. Each street was a terrace, and from each to the next street below the descent was forty or fifty feet. The fronts of the houses were level with the street they faced, but their rear first floors were propped on lofty stilts; a man could stand at a rear first floor window of a C street house and look down the chimneys of the row of houses below him facing D street. It was a laborious climb, in that thin atmosphere, to ascend from D to A street, and you were panting and out of breath when you got there; but you could [begin page 284] turn around and go down again like a house a-fire—so to speak. The atmosphere was so rarifiedtextual note, on account of the great altitude, that one’s blood lay near the surface always, and the scratch of a pin was a disaster worth worrying about, for the chances were that a grievous erysipelas would ensue. But to offset this, the thin atmosphere seemed to carry healing to gunshot wounds, and therefore, to simply shoot your adversary through both lungs was a thing not likely to afford you any permanent satisfaction, for he would be nearly certain to be around looking for you within the month, and not with an opera glass, either.

From Virginia’s airy situation one could look over a vast, farreaching panorama of mountain ranges and deserts; and whether the day was bright or overcast, whether the sun was rising or setting, or flaming in the zenith, or whether night and the moon held sway, the spectacle was always impressive and beautiful. Over your head Mount Davidson lifted its gray dome, and before and below you a rugged cañonemendation clove the battlemented hills, making a sombre gateway through which a soft-tinted desert was glimpsed, with the silver thread of a river winding through it, bordered with trees which many miles of distance diminished to a delicate fringe; and still further away the snowy mountains rose up and stretched their long barrier to the filmy horizon—far enough beyond a lake that burned in the desert like a fallen sun, though that, itself, lay fifty miles removed. Look from your window where you would, there was fascination in the picture. At rare intervals—but very rare—there were clouds in our skies, and then the setting sun would gild and flush and glorify this mighty expanse of scenery with a bewildering pomp of color that held the eye like a spell and moved the spirit like music.

Editorial Emendations CHAPTER 43
  whisky (C)  •  whiskey (A) 
  Genesee (C)  •  Genessee (A) 
  good-bye (C)  •  good by (A) 
  whisky (C)  •  whiskey (A) 
  & (C)  •  and (A) 
  cañon (C)  •  canyon (A) 
Textual Notes CHAPTER 43
 rarified] An acceptable nineteenth-century spelling ( OED , s.v. “rarefy”).
Explanatory Notes CHAPTER 43
 My great competitor . . . was Boggs of the Union] The character Boggs was based upon Clement T. Rice. Rice went to Nevada from New York in 1861, “having received an appointment under Gov. Nye” (Rice to A. W. Clark, 8 July 61, quoted in Marsh, 680 n. 144). He prospected for a time, and like Clemens owned shares in many mining claims. Clemens had met him in Carson City in 1861 when Rice was a [begin page 652] reporter on the Silver Age. Rice remained with the newspaper when it moved to Virginia City on 4 November 1862—under the proprietorship of Sam A. Glessner, James L. Laird, and John Church—and changed its name to the Union, soon becoming the major competitor of the Enterprise. Despite their elaborate journalistic sparring (with Rice figuring as “the Unreliable” in Clemens’s columns), the two were good friends, visiting San Francisco together in May and June 1863 and collaborating in reporting the third Territorial Legislature in 1864 for their respective newspapers. By 1867, reputedly a wealthy man, Rice had entered the insurance business in New York City ( L1 , 131, 135 n. 6; Lingenfelter and Gash, 32, 255; ET&S1 , 22, 193; MTEnt , 11–12).
 because the principal hated the Enterprise] William E. Mellvile had been the principal of—and a teacher at—Virginia City’s single public school since its establishment in 1862. During 1863 he was mentioned in the press as a possible candidate for political office and described as a superior teacher and a man of excellent character and fluent speech. He resigned in February 1864, perhaps as the result of unspecified charges brought against him by school trustee William H. Barstow. Clemens explained Mellvile’s animosity toward the Enterprise in an earlier account of the school-report incident in an 1867 letter to the Enterprise: “The scrub who had charge of the public school would not let me have the report for the Enterprise, because it had said he was an ass, which was true, and if he had been half a man he would have been flattered by it” (SLC 1868a; Angel, 571; Kelly 1863, 167; “Our Public School,” Virginia City Evening Bulletin, 8 July 63, 3; Argentoro, 1; “Board of Education,” Virginia City Union, 4, 7, and 25 Feb 64, 3; “Certificate of Incorporation of the Virginia Literary & Scientific Association,” dated 22 Jan 62, Book A: 3637–38, Storey County Archives, PH in CU-MARK, courtesy of Michael H. Marleau).
 the proprietor of the Union] In his 1867 Enterprise account Clemens identified this proprietor as John Church (SLC 1868a).
 there was no school report in the Union, and Boggs held me accountable] In an 1881 letter Rice teased Clemens about the school-report incident, alluding to “the ‘influence’ you dosed me with in the Territorial Enterprise office, to get my ‘school report’ that I obtained for the Union” (Rice to SLC, 4 Dec 81, CU-MARK).
 the proprietor of the “Genesee” mine] The Genesee, located in the Devil’s Gate district five or six miles southeast of Virginia City, aroused interest among speculators in late 1862 and early 1863. The mine “proprietor” who requested the inspection may have been one of two owners mentioned by Mark Twain in an 1868 letter to the Chicago Republican: “Where is the famous Genessee, which United States Senator Stewart and ‘uncle’ Johnny Atchison bought for so fabulous a sum?” (SLC 1868e). John H. Atchison invested widely in Comstock [begin page 653] mines, including the Ophir and the Mexican; in 1862 he and William M. Stewart (see the note at 288.16–17) lived at the same Carson City address (“Mining Matters in Nevada Territory,” San Francisco Alta California, 28 Nov 62, 1, reprinting the Virginia City Union of 22 November; Quartz, 1; Marsh, 686 n. 198; Grant H. Smith, 80–81 n. 1; Kelly 1862, 67, 89).
 the grand “flush times” . . . continued with unabated splendor for three years] The population boom, lavish spending habits, and jubilant spirits characterizing the Comstock in 1863 did not continue with “unabated splendor” for three years. The Washoe economy entered a major depression as early as May 1864 (right before Clemens’s departure for San Francisco), which “culminated in the panic of December 1865” (Grant H. Smith, 48–50). In his Enterprise letter of 29 December 1865 Mark Twain spoke of the “list of rich stock operators of two years ago” who were “busted”: “All the nabobs of ’63 are pretty much ruined. . . . These are sad, sad times” (SLC 1866a).
 It claimed a population of fifteen thousand to eighteen thousand] Although no official figures are available, it is estimated that between the fall of 1862 and midsummer 1863 the population of Virginia City increased from four thousand to fifteen thousand or more (Grant H. Smith, 28).